Read More: Culinary History of Walla Walla Onions
Corsican Origins: The Seed That Traveled Across the Sea
The story of the Walla Walla sweet onion begins not in Washington State, but on the French island of Corsica, in the Mediterranean Sea. In the late 19th century, Peter Pieri, a French soldier, found a sweet onion seed on the island. It belonged to a variety known as “Italian Sweet” or, potentially, “Très Gros des Vertus,” a large, mild onion. Recognizing its potential, he brought the seeds back to plant.
Around the turn of the 20th century, many Italian immigrants, had settled in the Walla Walla Valley of southeastern Washington, drawn by the region’s fertile soil and promising agricultural opportunities. Among these immigrants the most important to the history of this onion was Joe Locati. He aquired the seeds brought by Pieri, and began selecting the seeds from the best-performing onions – those that were the largest, sweetest, and most winter-hardy.
Adaptation and Selection: Creating a Unique Variety
The Walla Walla Valley, with its unique combination of climate and soil, proved to be an ideal environment for the sweet onion. The region’s hot, dry summers, cold winters, and well-drained, loess soil (wind-blown silt) contributed to the onion’s development. Crucially, the soil, like that of other famous sweet onion regions, is relatively low in sulfur, a key factor in reducing the pungency of onions.
Over generations, through a process of careful selection, the Italian sweet onion seed began to adapt to its new home. Farmers, selected seeds from the onions that exhibited the desired traits:
- Sweetness: Low pyruvate levels, resulting in a mild, non-pungent flavor.
- Large Size: A consistently large and round onion.
- Juiciness: A high water content, contributing to a crisp, juicy texture.
- Winter Hardiness: The ability to survive the cold winters of the Walla Walla Valley. This was crucial, as the Walla Walla sweet onion is a winter onion, planted in the fall and harvested in the summer.
This process of natural selection and farmer intervention gradually transformed the original Italian sweet onion into a distinct variety, uniquely adapted to the Walla Walla Valley.
The Rise of the “Walla Walla Sweet”: From Local Staple to Regional Icon
By the mid-20th century, the sweet onion had become a significant crop in the Walla Walla Valley. It was known locally for its exceptional sweetness and mildness, and it was increasingly referred to as the “Walla Walla Sweet.” Local farmers’ markets and roadside stands were the primary outlets, and word of mouth spread its reputation throughout the region.
Unlike the Vidalia onion, which received early and significant marketing support, the Walla Walla sweet onion’s rise to prominence was more gradual and organic. It was driven primarily by the onion’s inherent quality and the growing appreciation for its unique flavor.
The Walla Walla Sweet Onion Commission and Protecting the Legacy
As the Walla Walla sweet onion’s reputation grew, so did the potential for imitations. Growers outside the region began attempting to capitalize on the name, leading to concerns about quality and authenticity.
To protect the integrity of their product, Walla Walla sweet onion growers formed the Walla Walla Sweet Onion Commission. While not as heavily legislated as the Vidalia onion, the Commission worked to promote the onion and establish standards for its production.
In 1995, a Federal Marketing Order was established, similar to the one protecting Vidalia onions. While it doesn’t restrict the growing of the onion to a specific geographic area (as the Vidalia order does), it does regulate the marketing of onions under the “Walla Walla Sweet Onion” name. Only onions grown within a defined area encompassing parts of southeastern Washington and northeastern Oregon, and meeting specific quality standards, can be legally marketed as “Walla Walla Sweet Onions.” This protects the brand and ensures consumers are getting the genuine article.
Culinary Applications: A Versatile Sweet Onion
The Walla Walla sweet onion’s mild flavor, large size, and juicy texture make it exceptionally versatile in the kitchen:
- Raw: Its sweetness and lack of pungency make it ideal for salads, sandwiches, burgers, and relishes. It adds a pleasant crunch and subtle onion flavor without being overpowering.
- Grilled: Grilled whole, halved, or sliced, the Walla Walla sweet onion develops a delicious caramelized sweetness and smoky char.
- Roasted: Roasted alongside meats and vegetables, it adds a touch of sweetness and depth of flavor.
- Caramelized: Its high sugar content makes it perfect for slow caramelization, resulting in a rich, sweet, and intensely flavorful condiment.
- Onion Rings: The onion’s large size and consistent shape make it a favorite for making large, uniform onion rings.
- Soups and Stews: Although milder than storage onions, it contributes a gentle sweetness and body to soups and stews.
The Walla Walla Sweet Onion Today: A Culinary and Agricultural Treasure
The Walla Walla sweet onion remains a celebrated culinary ingredient, prized for its unique sweetness and versatility. It’s a testament to the power of adaptation, careful cultivation, and regional pride. The onion has become an integral part of the Walla Walla Valley’s identity, both economically and culturally.
The annual Walla Walla Sweet Onion Festival, held in the summer, celebrates the harvest and the onion’s importance to the region. It draws visitors from across the country, eager to sample the onion in various forms and experience the local culture.
The Walla Walla sweet onion’s story is a reminder that great culinary traditions often have humble beginnings. From a single seed brought from a distant land, a unique and beloved onion variety was born, shaped by the environment, the dedication of farmers, and the enduring appeal of a truly sweet and delicious onion. It stands as a symbol of the Pacific Northwest’s agricultural bounty and the enduring legacy of immigrant contributions to American cuisine.
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