Read More: Culinary History of Celery Ribs
Ancient Origins: Smallage and its Medicinal Might
The ancestor of the modern cultivated celery rib is a wild plant known as “smallage” (Apium graveolens var. secalinum). Smallage grows naturally in marshy areas across Europe, Asia, and Africa. Unlike the crisp, pale green ribs we’re familiar with, smallage ribs are thinner, darker green, hollow, and possess a significantly more intense, bitter, and almost pungent flavor.
- Early Medicinal Use: The earliest recorded uses of smallage were primarily medicinal. Ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, recognized its potent properties. The ribs, along with the rest of the plant, were used.
- Egypt: Evidence suggests that smallage was used in ancient Egypt as early as the 13th century BCE. Wreaths of wild celery, likely including the ribs, have been found in the tomb of Tutankhamun.
- Greece: In ancient Greece, smallage was associated with both victory and mourning. The ribs were part of wreaths used to crown victorious athletes and were also incorporated into funeral wreaths. Hippocrates prescribed smallage, likely including the ribs, as a diuretic and for treating various ailments.
- Rome: The Romans continued the medicinal use of smallage. Pliny the Elder documented its purported benefits, and it’s reasonable to assume the ribs were included in the preparations.
- Culinary Beginnings (Limited): While the primary focus was on its medicinal properties, there’s evidence that smallage was also used, albeit sparingly, in ancient cuisine. The strong flavor of the ribs likely meant they were used more as a flavoring agent or seasoning rather than a vegetable consumed in large quantities.
- Homer’s Odyssey: “Selinon,” believed to be wild celery, is mentioned, and while not explicitly stating the ribs were eaten, it implies the entire plant was known and potentially used.
- Roman Recipes: Some Roman recipes might have included smallage. The ribs, with their intense flavor, would have added a pungent, aromatic note.
The Long Road to Domestication: From Bitter to Mild
The transformation of wild, bitter smallage ribs into the milder, crisper celery ribs we enjoy today was a long and gradual process.
- Medieval Obscurity: During the Middle Ages, the culinary use of celery ribs remains somewhat unclear. They likely continued to be part of the plant used in monastic gardens, primarily for medicine.
- Italian Renaissance: A Turning Point: The 16th and 17th centuries in Italy mark a crucial period. Gardeners began to cultivate and select smallage for larger, less bitter ribs.
- Blanching: The Key to Mildness: “Blanching,” shielding the growing celery ribs from sunlight, was key. This prevented chlorophyll production, resulting in paler, less bitter, and more tender ribs. This was achieved by:
- Hilling: Mounding soil around the growing ribs.
- Tying: Wrapping the ribs with paper or other materials.
- Self-Blanching Varieties: Eventually, varieties were developed that naturally produced paler ribs.
- Spread Across Europe: By the 17th and 18th centuries, cultivated celery, with its improved ribs, had spread throughout Europe.
Culinary Ascendance: From Relish to Essential Ingredient
As celery ribs became milder, their culinary role expanded significantly.
- 18th and 19th Centuries: A Vegetable in Vogue: Celery ribs began to appear more frequently in cookbooks. They were often served raw as a relish, their crisp texture appreciated.
- Celery Vases: Victorian-era “celery vases” displayed the ribs upright, highlighting their fashionable status.
- Mirepoix: The Aromatic Foundation: In French cuisine, diced celery ribs became an integral part of the mirepoix, the aromatic base for countless dishes. This foundational element showcases the rib’s ability to provide a subtle savory depth.
- American Adoption: Celery ribs readily took root in North America. The invention of celery salt and celery seed further expanded their culinary applications.
- 20th Century and Beyond: A Culinary Staple: The celery rib became ubiquitous:
- Salads: Waldorf salad, a classic, features celery ribs.
- Soups and Stews: A key component in countless recipes.
- Stuffing: Often used in bread stuffing for poultry.
- Bloody Mary: The iconic cocktail often includes a celery rib as a garnish.
- “Ants on a Log”: A popular children’s snack using celery ribs.
- Dipping Vegetable: A healthy option for dips.
Global Variations and Culinary Adaptations
Celery ribs have adapted to various culinary traditions.
- European Cuisine: Beyond mirepoix, celery ribs are used in various European dishes.
- Asian Cuisine: In some Asian cuisines, particularly Chinese cooking, celery ribs are used in stir-fries.
- Latin American Cuisine: Celery ribs can be found in some Latin American dishes, often as part of a sofrito.
Conclusion: A Story of the Rib
The culinary history of the celery rib is a remarkable story of transformation. From a bitter, wild component of a medicinal plant, the celery rib has evolved into a globally beloved vegetable. Its crisp texture, refreshing flavor, and versatility have made it a staple ingredient. The journey of the celery rib highlights the enduring power of human ingenuity and the ever-evolving relationship between humans and the plants they cultivate. The focus on the rib highlights the importance of even seemingly simple parts of a plant in shaping culinary history.
Chef Tom Founder
Share
Click on the icons below to share "Title of the item to share"